Refinish of Yamaha P-32D
August 9, 2016 at 6:32 pm #7465
Alan, the gold finish is nice, a different look. When I paint over an existing color I like to use “Kilz” primer. Unlike regular primer, the undercoat can produce a different color and spotting and sometimes a dull effect. It’s a little bit more expensive than your typical krylon primer but the end results are more consistent.
Daren, the faux wood grain finish is very interesting. I was thinking of trying a wood veneer on one of my clavietta to see how it would look. Maybe I will try this soon.
Melodica-MeAugust 9, 2016 at 6:53 pm #7466
Kilz is a brush-on or roll-on primer, MM. Do you apply it with a brush? Do you then sand or wet sand before applying the Krylon?August 9, 2016 at 7:45 pm #7467
Alan, I used the spray can ” very light coats” this stuff is thick. You need to check for either oil base or water base. I used the water based on the enamel spray paint and worked fine. The key is to let the Kilz dry completely, it will sand like chalkiness a Tac cloth and then spray you first coat lightly sand and repeat. I am not sure if it will work with acrylics. Definately try on a piece of plastic before you hit the melodica.
Hope this helps
Melodica-MeAugust 9, 2016 at 9:32 pm #7468
Okay, I only found cans on Amazon but see that Lowes and other places have Kilz spray paints. I understand about water vs. oil base. Complaints about incompatibility between Krylon and Rust-Oleum primers and paints are probably related to insufficient drying. I’ll try some Kilz primer next time. I figured you’d know about this stuff from your model making.
My walnut P-32E and espresso P-25E are drying/curing for another week, but I’ll post some photos of them in a bit.August 10, 2016 at 3:47 am #7469
I usually always have some kind of a trial and error period when working with plastic and paints. But one rule I do follow is little paint and lots of dry time and patience.August 10, 2016 at 5:03 am #7470
Here are the P-32D walnut and P-25E espresso after Rust-Oleum primer and satin paint after one week.
These may need more paint before whatever comes next.
August 10, 2016 at 6:47 pm #7473
- This reply was modified 2 years, 11 months ago by Alan Brinton.
I love the golden melodica!August 17, 2016 at 9:19 pm #7510
Okay, here’s the gold P-32D after a bit of wet sanding and touch-up. I will now let this cure for at least two months before laying hands on it again. This has multiple layers of Krylon Cover MAXX Metallic Gold over the original finish (after fine steel wool) and then coating with Krylon ColorMaster Acrylic Crystal Clear Gloss. The finish is not as metallic and glossy as it looked at first, having dulled somewhat after about a week of drying/curing. But I probably won’t try to get more of a shine.
I have to say after working with Rust-oleum on the other P-32D and the P-25E (still in process) that it is much easier to get an even and smooth finish with Krylon.August 18, 2016 at 5:10 am #7511
Awesome job Alan, looks great. Is the two month Waite a recommendation from the manufacture for a full cure? I don’t think I would be able to waite that long, I would want to play it, it’s to cool looking not to.
Melodica-MeAugust 18, 2016 at 2:03 pm #7512
Thanks. I read all kinds of conflicting recommendations about drying and curing times, Oscar. Some said that complete curing takes 2-3 months, after which the finish will no longer be susceptible to chemical reactions. I found with my previous P-32 refinishing job in black that after a week of curing (without being handled), the melodica still felt a little sticky and had residue from fingerprints, which I could sorta wipe off, but not completely. I know what you mean about wanting to play it. But I want to see whether this produces better results.August 24, 2016 at 4:01 pm #7549
Hi Alan! Love watching your project in progress! I have question for you. I have noticed in some of Jon Baptiste’s videos a couple of melodicas that are seem to be hand painted to very nice effect. Here is on of them.
I am wondering if you have an opinion as to what type of paint could be used to recreate this type of effect? I want to try my hand at creating something unique on maybe a Hohner 32B.
I also wonder if you can identify the melodica here that Jon is using. In some ways it resembles a Yamaha P25F but in other ways not. Thanks for any input you may have or anyone else who feels inclined to chime in!August 24, 2016 at 4:08 pm #7552
Sorry but unable to figure out how to upload images on this site.
August 24, 2016 at 4:14 pm #7554August 24, 2016 at 7:04 pm #7555
- This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by Pam A.
Jon generally plays Suzukis. For a long time his regular model was a Suzuki Pro-v37ii. Lately his preference seems to be a Suzuki M-32C. The end pieces of the instrument in your first photo are rounded just like those of an M series Suzuki, so I’m pretty sure that’s an M-32C.
I would guess that Jon’s customized refinishings are done by a professional with an airbrush, by an artist or by someone who would do custom refinishing on, say, a motorcycle. The finish could not be baked on the plastic end pieces, but it could be on the M-32C’s metal tray.
I’ve thought about taking a melodica to a custom motorcycle detailer to see what they could (and would) do. I have had refinish work done on my BMW F-650GS, and the result was, as expected, a lovely durable finish, on plastic parts as well as on metal.
Decals are another possibility. I think you’d want a clear coating over decals.
AlanAugust 24, 2016 at 9:47 pm #7556
Thanks for that quick response. I like the idea of decals. I put some on my ukulele and they are very nice. Thanks!
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